Il Palio di Siena

Siena’s city center is divided into 17 Contradas, each of which is represented by an animal or symbolic object and boasts an individual museum, motto, statue and baptismal fountain. Siena residents have a deeply rooted sense of local identity and patriotism that is rooted in the Contrada into which they were born or adopted. At the heart of the Contrada culture is the annual Palio festival and horse race, which takes place each July and August in Piazza del Campo. The winners of these two, minute-and-a-half long races around the Piazza bear the honor of their victories for the following year. Newfound residents of Siena quickly catch on to the importance of the Contrada system to local culture; please read on to hear current CET students tell you about Siena’s Contradas as they have experienced them.

As part of the natural instinct of human nature, we continually seek acceptance and belonging. The sense of belonging to something, whether it is a place, group, or spirituality, is important to each of us in order to have an identity, to feel like we matter. The seventeen contrade within the centro of Siena illustrate this universal belonging in a most conspicuous fashion, that all culminates in the Palio. After reading over the background of the different contrade, this week I began to see the passion behind each symbol. While sipping a coffee at a cafe that overlooks Piazza del Campo, I asked my Italian friend, Edoardo, about these passions of the Palio. Edoardo, although not from Siena, has a full understanding of what the deep-seated rivalry between the contrade is all about. In one word, “sleale,” he described the behavior of the contrada members during the Palio. In English, this term translates as “disloyal”or “unsportsmanlike.” In America, we would frown upon such obnoxious behavior. But in Siena, of course! Why be polite when your own identity and sense of belonging is on the line? As men of flesh, we fight most violently when our own self-interest is at risk. Thus, the Palio, although seemingly petty to outsiders, is truly a life-changing event. To the people of Siena, this competition is not just a horse race but a ninety second whirlwind that determines their state of existence for the following three hundred and sixty five days. Edoardo knows this from only being here three years. Now after just three weeks, I am starting to crack this shell of understanding.

Clare Hogan

CET Siena Student, Spring 2010

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I trudged home in the snow today after our tour of the contrada dell’Onda. As I walked through the Campo and down Via Pantaneto, I spotted two individuals wearing their contrada scarves (whose flags, yes, I am working on memorizing!), and despite the minor blizzard, took notice of the countless snails of the Chiocciola as I walked to Silvia, my host mother’s apartment in Piazza Santo Spirito. Silvia greeted me with tea, and I sat at the kitchen counter as I told her about our CET visit. I told her what I had read about the Palio, and she was so pleased to talk about her own experience and love for the Chiocciola contrada. It was then that I had one of those moments that hits me daily, where I realize just how spoiled I am to be living in a homestay: Silvia got up from the table for a moment, and returned with her childhood photo album. We went through the entire album together (in Italian), and she arrived at photographs from her baptism in the Chiocciola contrada in 1949! Alongside the photos, there was the actual baptism announcement, which she explained was carved and printed by “the best” painter in the city at the time, who happened to be a member of the contrada. The photographs are beautiful black and white prints depicting Silvia in her white baptismal gown, the residing member of the contrada dressed in traditional medieval regalia standing above her. She explained how her two sons were baptized into the contrada when they were born, and that the tradition remains the same today, as her granddaughter was baptized into it as well.

The reading I have done for the Italian Cultural History class has provided a wonderful frame about the part a contrada plays in the lives of Sienese people. The anecdotes were incredible, and the explanations extremely helpful and informative. However, it was the actual visit to the Contrada dell’Onda compounded with Silvia’s personal experience, as well as our professor’s personal love for l’Onda, that really illustrates the all-pervasive community element of contrada life. The fact that a mass text was sent out to the l’Onda contrada concerning the heavy snow that fell on the day of our visit, or the ribbons that still announce the birth of children within each contrada, the beautiful costumes in the Onda museum; these are all markers of extraordinary community pride. That there are 17 contradas in the city is even more remarkable. The rivalries and alliances and the intensity of the Palio - the poisoning of the Porcupine Contrada and the sabotaging of horses! - was also demonstrated by the film that we watched on the Palio during our class trip. My initial scepticism about the true gravity of contrada life melted away completely. There is such love for this integral part of Siena’s persona. I found it fascinating to read about and even more incredible to witness first hand. Another CET student, Tiernan, and I are putting “Returning to Siena for the Palio” on our bucket lists. At this point in time, I can’t help but think of the Piazza del Campo as a tranquil, beautiful center. Apparently I need to return in July or August to do away with this impression!

Sean O'Hanlan

CET Siena Student, Spring 2010

List of recommended places to go from friends who were already abroad – check!

Semi-light suitcase packed with practical and re-wearable clothing – check!

Homemade handbook of Italian grammar and pocket dictionary – check!

Journal – check!

Membership for international non-profit for travels and hosts – check!

Home stay with highly praised and recommended host – check!

After feeling completely prepared for my abroad experience I get off the airplane and I cannot even figure out where to go to retrieve my luggage, or who to ask. Everyone is in a hurry and no one looks like they are from around here. Later, I ask the information desk where to find the train but still cannot locate it anywhere. After lugging around my heavy suitcases (maybe I over exaggerated before with the semi-light description) I finally make it to a train. Most of the stops for the stations don’t have clear signs and I get dirty looks from passengers because my bags blockade multiple seats. After the train I need to get on a bus. But where is the stop? And how do I get to the bus from there…

Positive attitude?...

Thankfully -- check! The number one rule I made when I realized I was getting a little panicky: Getting lost is an adventure! It is another experience to add to the book and one that should be embraced and celebrated (while remaining safe of course!)

After asking several different people several times in broken Italian which stop we were at I finally managed to hop off at the one I needed. I was told the bus station would be close but after (with the help of a strong man who kindly volunteered to assist me) lugging my things down several flights of stairs to find the station, I was told I had to go upstairs and across the street—Italy sure could use some more signs! Thankfully I made it to the bus in time and all was well, after some communication confusion with several ticket offices.

Alas I was on my way to Siena. After this initial experience I no longer had any idea what to expect…

Fast forward three weeks and I’m on the same type of Sena bus (a bus that connects Siena to outside cities), no longer anxious with the excitement and nerves of heading someplace new but the relaxed eased feeling of heading home.

I spent a wonderful weekend in Padova and Venice, and experienced a marvelous feeling on the return bus at the end of my trip. I was homesick… for Siena. I missed the city’s familiar streets, the crisp cold of the air and my lovely host who already feels like family. I have travelled twice since arriving in Siena, a day trip to Florence, the city I originally desired to study in, and this past trip to Padova and Venice. Both were lovely and I very much enjoyed my travels and experiencing new places, but both also confirmed my love for the city I currently reside in. Familiarity is always yearned after time spent in a new place, but Siena has this wonderful spirit and community, a sense of security and familiarity with still much to explore and get lost in—it is a place where I don’t necessarily feel a part of the community but feel welcomed to explore it and dig into all of it’s dirty little secrets. It is a place I can return to and not know what street I’m on, but within seconds know that I am home. This is my current sentiment. It’s not something I could have originally checked off my packing list but an unexpected part of the experience that I kind of just fell in to. And I’m embracing it—La vita e’ bella!

Danielle Barnes

CET Siena Student Correspondent, Spring '10

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Danielle has chosen to publish her articles in both English and Italian; here is the Italian translation of the above text.

• Una lista di posti da vedere consigliati dagli amici che hanno già studiato all’estero;
• Una valigia leggera contenente vestiti pratici e riportabili;
• Un manuale della grammatica italiano e un dizionario tascabile;
• Un diario;
• L’iscrizione a un’ONG internazionale per viaggiatori e ospiti
• Un alloggio in famiglia con una signora gentile e accogliente!

Benché mi sentissi completamente preparata per la mia esperienza all’estero, scendo dall’aereo e non so dove andare per recuperare il bagaglio, o a chi chiedere. Tutti vanno di fretta e non sembra che nessuno sia di qui. Più tardi, chiedo allo sportello informazioni dove posso trovare il treno, ma non lo trovo da nessuna parte. Dopo aver portato la valigia pesante dappertutto (forse ho esagerato un po’ quando ho detto prima che la valigia era “leggera”) finalmente trovo il treno. La maggior parte delle fermate non è ben indicata, i passeggeri mi danno degli sguardi brutti perché i miei bagagli occupano molti posti. Dopo aver preso il treno, devo prendere un autobus. Ma dov’è la fermata? E come si va alla stazione da là...?

Un atteggiamento positivo?

Fortunatamente, ho portato anche questo! La regola più importante che continuo a ripetermi quando mi lascio un po’ prendere dal panico: Perdersi è un’avventura! È un’altra esperienza da aggiungere a questo semestre, euna che devo accogliere e festeggiare (rimanendo sempre salva, ovviamente!)

Dopo aver chiesto diverse persone in un italiano stentato in quale stazione ci troviamo, finalmente scendo dove devo essere. Varie persone mi hanno detto che la stazione degli autobus si trova vicino ma dopo aver trascinato le mie cose giù per molte scale a trovare la stazione (con l’aiuto di un uomo forte che ha offerto gentilmente di aiutarmi), poi qualcuno mi dice che invece devo tornare su e attraversare la strada per arrivare alla stazione—non guasterebbe qualche segnale stradale in Italia! Con gratitudine, trovo l’autobus in tempo e va tutto bene, dopo un po’ di confusione con i biglietti.

Finalmente, stavo andando a Siena. Dopo questa prima esperienza, non avevo nessuna idea di cosa mi aspettasse…

Tre settimane dopo e sono sullo stesso tipo di autobus, la Sena (una compagnia che collega Siena con altre città italiane), non ansiosa più per l’emozione e la frustrazione di andare in un posto nuovo, ma invece con il sentimento rilassato di tornare a casa.

Ho avuto un weekend bellissimo a Padova e Venezia, e ho avuto un sentimento meraviglioso sull’autobus ritornando a Siena alla fine del mio viaggio. Provo nostalgia...per Siena. Mi mancano le strade familiari della città, la secchezza fredda dell’aria, e la signora graziosa che mi ospita a casa sua, e che già sembra parte della mia famiglia.

Ho viaggiato due volte da quando sono arrivata a Siena, un viaggio di un giorno a Firenze, la città dove ho voluto studiare originariamente, e questo viaggio a Padova e Venezia. Tutti e due i viaggi erano belli e mi sono divertita molto perché mi piace vedere i posti nuovi, ma tutti e due hanno confermato il mio amore per la città dove risiedo attualmente. Si cerca sempre un po’ di familiarità dopo aver passato del tempo in un posto nuovo, ma Siena ha uno spirito meraviglioso e una comunità forte, mi dà un senso di sicurezza e familiarità e qui c’è molto da vedere, molti posti dove perdersi anche - è un posto dove non mi sento necessariamente una parte della comunità, ma dove mi sento libera di esplorare e capire tutti i suoi segreti. È un posto dove posso ritornare, e senza sapere neanche in quale strada mi trovo, so che sono a casa. Questo è il mio sentimento attuale. Non è qualcosa che avrei potuto elencare nella lista bagaglio, ma è una parte inaspettata della esperienza che mi è capitata, e l’abbraccio– La vita è bella!