Living in the Land of Awes(ome)

Ciao a tutti. So much has been happening this past month in Siena, but since Nick decided to ignore the Palio, I’ll start there. The Palio is a horse race devoted to the Virgin Mary held in Piazza Del Campo every July 2 and August 16. 10 horses race, 1 wins, the winning contrada wins the Palio, a banner. It was an experience like no other to be in the Campo squeezed in with thousands of people, waiting for two hours as a medieval procession of parading horses and alfiere (flag throwers) performed. The actual race took less than three minutes, but what a three minutes they were! 5 of the 9 jockeys running (one of the horses died in a practice run, which is why only 9 raced) fell off during the race, one would have won had he stayed not hit a flag! Oca, the goose contrada, won, and that night, lights flickered all along the campo as the Oca members drummed and waved their flag around Siena all night. I’m pretty sure they are still celebrating the win… one can only wish the US was older so that we could have something so rich in history and cool to watch!

Right after the Palio, we got to celebrate Independence Day. American Independence Day! Other than Oca parading around the Palio, nobody in Siena really did much for the holiday. We did our best to make up for them. We all gathered at the Pogg and created an All-American feast, complete with burgers, ribs, potato salad, watermelon, and of course, the traditional berry American flag cake. And what would any international July 4^th be without an 80’s classic? (Can anyone feel the Danger Zone Take your Breath Away?). The biggest disappointment (at least for me) was the lack of good old fireworks. What’s July 4^th without some bombs bursting in air? Anyway, I think we did our country proud with our attempt.

Also, our Art History class has taken some field trips in the past few weeks, including trips to San Gimignano, Monte Oliveto and Pienza. San Gimignano was home to towering Torre, Venaccia grapes and then world’s best gelato (so they say…). Monte Oliveto was home to frescos detailing the life of St. Benedict and Pienza was the town of Enea Silvio Piccolomini (aka Pope Pius II). But, I think most of us would agree that the best part of the latter trip was the cheese tasting after art class. We got to learn how they make different cheeses, and sample different varieties of Peccorino, a sheep’s milk cheese, and ricotta, which they say will not make you fat. If only we could bring some of that wonderful cheesiness back to the US.

The week after the Palio, most of us traveled to Naples and the Amalfi coast for the weekend. All I can say is that every minute on the Mediterranean was worth it; I have never seen such a blue oasis before in my life and almost didn’t want to leave. One of the highlights of the trip was a boat ride around Capri, on which we were allowed to swim through some of the notable grottos of the island. I learned just how salty the Mediterranean is that day, but every grain of salt still in my throat was worth the views. We all decided that one day, we’ll live on the mansions of the cliffs and enjoy the wonder of the Mediterranean for the rest of our lives… at least it was a nice thought. The next highlight was the ruins of Pompeii. It was really cool to see such a well-preserved town thousands of years old and understand how people lived many eons before us. It’s so sad to imagine that most of the art was lost not due to time, but improper restoration techniques L We also learned the hard way that even when they say there is an 11:45 bus, it doesn’t mean it will actually come. On a brighter note, we got to see fireworks (better late than never right?) and it is hard to go wrong with a trip to the coast.

The next weekend, most of us split up to do our own adventures, such as seeing Bolonga, rafting in Trento, and going to Sardinia. I went to Rome because after years of Latin, I could not miss out on seeing how the ancient Romans live. All I have to say is thank you whoever decided to make Rome walkable in 2 days! Two big lessons of the trip: when booking a hostel, ALWAYS get a confirmation number or e-mail. We got very lucky and found somewhere to stay, but to any future travelers, heed these words accordingly. Secondly, we decided that after a day of walking, to go sit down and see a movie. We chose to see Transformers 3 in Italian (mostly because you don’t need English for that series!). I understood most of the plot, but missed some of the jokes. The weird aspect of Italian movie theaters, or at least the one we were at, was that you were assigned a seat in the theater. One person in the group bought his ticket later, and had to sit somewhere else, which seems really strange. But, when in Rome, do as the romans (command).

This summer in Siena has truly been more than I could ever have wanted: I got to learn another language, use it almost daily, and travel around one of the most truly scenic countries in the world. All I can say is that this summer has been AWESOME!

CET Siena Student Correspondent, Summer '11

Jon Edelstein, Brandeis University

Sienese Nightlife

It's July 3, so the ‘Palio di Siena’ was yesterday. The cornerstone to the lives of the Sienese, it is a cultural experience like no other. And I am not going to talk about it. Pick up any Rick Steve's or Lonely Planet and they can tell you all about it (or Jon or I will in a few weeks). Instead I want to talk about the actual Siena, the one hidden behind the picturesque postcards and the fanny packs. Because every day, as the shadows from the Palazzo Pubblico grow longer over the Campo and the throngs of tourists take the ‘rapida’ bus back to Florence, Siena makes its transformation into an actual city. And a city isn't a city without night life.

Siena is pretty similar to a US college town. Practically devoid of anything resembling a proper nightclub, the youth scene here thrives on relaxing in the Campo with some wine. Every night starts and ends this way, with little alteration. Bars pepper the border of the Campo, each selling their own version of cheap, good red wine, packed with Italians, Americans, Australians, Germans. Everyone is engaging in the same nightly ritual surrounded by a city that has stayed largely unchanged for 700 years. It is unquestionably a cool feeling, to sit and socialize in the same spot that the Sienese of old did, in a Piazza that has remained relatively unchanged since its heyday.

Down a side street off the Campo sits Bella Vista, one of the most relaxed, but by far the most interesting, night spots in Siena. Owned by two immigrants from the Ivory Coast, the walls are completely covered with posters and magazines, engulfing the bar in a bizarre collage of celebrities from the 50's to now. The unique interior attracts travelers and Sienese alike, creating an international bonding experience over a good mojito and unending reggae. The owners dance wildly behind the bar and spark conversations in French, Italian, and broken English. Great place, great times.

If the bar scene wears you out, which it is want to do, you can always talk one of your new Italian friends into taking you to an Italian college party. We first arrived in Siena as exams were ending, and one lucky night we got invited to a party thrown by the University of Siena before all of the students left to go back home for the summer. Two things became instantly apparent as we arrived in the courtyard of an old church. First, Italian dance music is still about five years behind the American scene. Kevin Lyttle's "Turn Me On" blared from the DJ booth, taking us back to 2003. Second, the vast majority of the students could not dance. It was at this moment that I realized I may have been born in Italy, as this would be a pretty accurate description of myself. We awkwardly shuffled to "Stacy's Mom" for hours.

It wouldn't be Siena if the contradas didn't have an input on the city's night life. Contrada parties are where the Sienese really let loose and create some of the best experiences for us here in Siena. Two weeks ago we went to a party in the Wave contrada, where a member of one of the home stay families was playing with his band. We went in expecting an Italian pop or rock band, but were instead met with an Elvis lookalike singing, in jumbled English, 1950's rock standards. Standing underneath the Tuscan moon, watching an Italian rock band play the most lively rendition of "You Really Got Me" we had ever seen while everyone around us thrashed with the beat, we all had the same thought: How were we lucky enough to experience this?

Nick Carullo, UVa

CET Siena Student Correspondent, Summer '11