martedì 10 aprile 2012

Linguistic Conundrums and International Travel

Here’s a brief overview of the adventures I have had since I have last updated:

My friend Johnny came and visited during my midterms week. At the end of his visit, which corresponded with the beginning of my Spring Break, we headed to Venice with Sarah. From Venice (more specifically, Verona) I flew to Paris and spent two days at my friend Adam’s apartment in Paris, where he is studying. On the Monday of that week, Ari, Hannah, and Rachel arrived in Paris, and I spent the following two nights and three days with them seeing all there was to see. Naturally, my camera died on the last night we were there. From Paris we flew to Barcelona and after a much-needed nap, we recommenced our touring and flew back to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day in Milan on Saturday. Sunday we took a bus home to Siena, and we were all very much ready to be back.

As much as I’m sure you would be fascinated by a detailed description of every meal I ate, every wrong turn I made, every piece of art I saw at every museum, and each subtle facet of emotion I experienced while on my Spring Break adventure, I will limit myself to some general commentary and noteworthy thoughts on the subject.

The most negative thing about the trip might have been the incredible and almost unimaginable pain we all felt in our feet constantly from day three onwards. Walking for 12+ hours a day will do that to you, we found. Unremarkable feet are an exceptionally undervalued commodity. Like how you don’t appreciate the greatness of a normal nose for breathing until it is stuffed up, red, and raw from all of those non Puffs-Plus tissues you’ve been using, you don’t appreciate how great non-sore feet are for walking until you are in Barcelona and you left yours behind in the Verona airport.

Other than that, I didn’t experience any major obstacles to my travel. I didn’t miss any flights or busses, take the wrong metro into a bad part of town, lose contact with my travel companions, get my wallet stolen, or really anything dramatic whatsoever. It was a little lonely wandering Paris for two days by myself, I will grant you, but it also allowed me to pick up much more of the language than I might have otherwise, and I also definitely appreciated the time it provided me to just think.

The most important thing I learned was that French bread is unforgettable. The macaroons were good or whatever, but the BREAD! Nothing in Italy compares. I know there’s some tradition or something of Tuscans not salting their bread, but they need to get over themselves and start learning from the French.

This past week, professors and administrators from UVa came to observe CET, and when we had dinner all together, we began talking about the cultural differences between Italians and Americans. One of them asked if and/or how we were getting to know Italian individuals, and we had to admit that it is a pretty difficult task.

Unless you have the guts and lack of inhibitions to naturally walk up to a group of Italians on the Campo in the middle of the day, the only opportunity we have had to talk to Italians one-on-one has really been while we are out at bars at night. And there is a limited level of friendship you can garner with a random person at a bar late at night, unless you are looking for more than your average, platonic friendship. If you know what I’m saying.

Thankfully, our program is small and we have the opportunity to live with young Italians who naturally become our friends. Furthermore, as we explained to our university visitors, we have Christina. Christina, our resident director, set up a casual language partner program, where she asked us all to list our top three interests, and she found some Italians from around Siena who wanted to improve their English and matched us up according to our interests. The idea was to have someone new with whom to converse for about an hour a week. After the initial meeting, it was up to us to set up our language lesson appointments, if you could call them that.

My language partner’s name is Angelo, and he is a law student at the University of Siena. I know sometimes it doesn’t work out so well, and some students find that situations such as these can feel a bit awkward or forced, especially if you fundamentally lack things in common, but we get along really well.

On the first day, I felt kind of like Christina had assigned us new friends. In a good way. Whenever I had class group projects in school, I always liked having the groups assigned randomly by the teacher, so that I would be forced to meet and get to know (possibly make friends with) people I might not otherwise have gone out of my way to talk to. I also like assigned reading, because I often find that I really enjoy what I would not have otherwise made the time to read.

I saw this opportunity as the same kind of thing. Christina manipulated the social structure obstructing our entry into Siena social circles and voilà: we had Italian friends.

I think within our group of CET students and our Italian language partners, the sequence of events went in a pretty similar manner. Get coffee together one time, then an aperitif the next, become actual friends, then maybe make dinner at one house or another in a group or something.

In some cases, when the language skills of one partner are better or worse than the other, it might happen that you tend to speak more in one language or another. For example, two of the language partners both study Finance in English as their major in college, so much more English is spoken than Italian.

For my part, as Angelo and I actually just discussed the other day, I can understand him when he speaks at a normal pace in Italian, but he can’t perfectly comprehend my mile-a-minute English. It all evens out, though, because he can speak English far better than I can speak Italian. In the end, we speak a pretty equal amount of Italian and English.

I think one of my favorite parts of the language partnership is that our conversations aren’t based in academics. In an academic setting, there are certain linguistic boundaries that are very difficult to cross, and as, in the end, you’re getting a grade for your verbal performance, there is pressure to speak cleanly with what you know, rather than diving right in and getting dirty. When you are talking with a language partner, the only necessity is communication. Messing up isn’t as threatening, especially when you know that they will just laugh at you, correct you, and then mess up in your own native language a few minutes later, at which point you can return the favor by laughing and correcting their mistake.

The mistakes are sometimes the most amusing part of it all. By messing up and having a good laugh at the silliness of language, you can enjoy the fact that the past participle of “to make out” and the word for “lemonade” are the same. Or that it is very difficult for Italians to pronounce “air” versus “hair” versus “ear” versus “hear.” Or you can have a good chuckle when one of you confuses “pants” and “shoes.” (Please, make yourself comfortable! Take off your pants and stay a while.)

Erin Friedlander, CET Siena Student Correspondent

martedì 3 aprile 2012

CET Siena cerca Italian Roommates per l'autunno di 2012

CET ACADEMIC PROGRAMS, presente a Siena dal 2001, è in cerca di nuovi collaboratori per la prossima sessione (agosto 2012 – dicembre 2012). CET ospita fra 10-15 studenti universitari americani per tre soggiorni di studio all’anno: uno primaverile, uno estivo e uno autunnale. Durante il loro soggiorno a Siena gli studenti americani condividono appartamenti con studenti italiani che fanno parte del programma “Italian Roommates”.

Lo studente italiano lavora insieme ai membri dello staff per sviluppare e mantenere un ambiente sereno negli spazi residenziali (appartamenti nel centro storico abitati da 2-4 studenti americani). Quale compenso, usufruisce gratuitamente di una camera singola nell’appartamento che condivide con gli studenti americani (si richiede un contributo mensile di 80 Euro che copre tutte le utenze, compreso internet) per un valore stimato di circa 400 €/mese. Tutte le attività e cene sponsorizzate dalla scuola (valore stimato = €200 per sessione) saranno pagate e/o rimborsate dalla scuola.

Il ruolo dell’ “Italian Roomate” ha diversi profili e comprende lo sviluppo di attività culturali, la sicurezza e supervisione degli studenti, e alcune responsabilità amministrative nell’ufficio dell’istituto. Tali mansioni richiedono che il Roommate sia un forte e affidabile punto di riferimento sia per lo staff che per gli studenti, che abbia una buona conoscenza della lingua inglese e che promuova il benessere di tutta la comunità residenziale. Il Roommate è una risorsa per gli studenti e per lo staff e si impegna a rispettare gli obiettivi e la missione di CET Academic Programs. Ogni Roommate rispetta e rafforza le regole e le procedure dell’istituto.

Date AuTUNNO 2012:

Siena – FALL 2012

Mer, 22 ago Arrivo studenti

Gio, 23 ago Cena di inizio sessione

Gio, 22 – Sab, 24 Orientamento studenti

Lun, 15 -19 ott Fall Break

Gio, 13 Dic Cena di fine sessione

Sab, 16 Dic Partenza studenti

Se siete interessati a candidarvi alla posizione mandate un’email all’indirizzo: siena@cetitaly.com per richiedere un application form.

martedì 6 marzo 2012

Bopping the Boot with Boots to Boot

It has been an age and a half since I last posted, I know. I’m going to blame it on the fact that I have learned a little bit about traveling, and thus have had no more harrowing stories to share. I keep my important wallet items in a travel thingy in my boot so unless the little gypsy children tackle me and take off my shoes, I’m set.


Furthermore, the weather has been SPECTACULAR. And by that I mean it only snowed a little bit for the weeks following Rome, and then it turned off the gloom and turned on that blue Tuscan sky and hot Italian sun. No more weather-based travel issues for me this semester. Knock on wood.

Two weeks later, we traveled again.

Last weekend, Sarah, Eric and I diddied and bopped to Genoa. On the train, as I was walking back to the compartment where Sarah and Eric were sitting a few minutes before our stop, I recognized a girl sitting facing me. She looked up, saw me, and we both remained still, speechless, entirely astonished, for a solid two minutes.

“Katie?!”

“Erin?!”

“What on earth!”

“This is not real life.”

“I don’t even understand. Where are you headed!?

etc.

Katie, a friend of mine from UVa who is studying in Lyon, France this semester just so happened to be on that half of that compartment of that train at that time. She was headed to Milan before going back to Lyon. I like to think the Universe was smiling down on us, encouraged by the clear sky and the crystalline ocean to allow us such a pleasant coincidence.

Sarah, Eric and I got off the train in Genoa, bought ourselves a map of the city, and quickly realized that we had gotten off one stop too late, so that we were on the opposite end of the city from our hotel, rather than the two or three blocks, as we had expected. But no matter. We were fresh as the sea air, and a half an hour stroll through a new city sounded enjoyable enough.


I immediately felt more out of place than I had felt since I first stepped off the bus in Siena with my huge blue suitcase to roll down the cobblestone to my apartment. The population of Genoa was unlike the other

Italian cities we had been to. It wasn’t the homogenous, dark hair, dark eye, light skinned crowd we had grown accustomed to. There were people of all colors, but we, with the tell-tale indicators of our tourist-dom stuck out uncomfortably.

“Hey! Hey you! Short hair! Ragazza!” one guy shouted at me as he walked past.

Not terribly original by way of cat-calling, but nor did this make me feel welcome or safe. I was glad Eric was there with Sarah and I this time.


We headed to the waterfront so we could see the view and find our way more easily. I won’t pretend like the city isn’t a little dirty, the streets narrow, and the general atmosphere less than perfe

ctly welcoming, but it is spectacular to look at. The colors of the buildings, the water, and the green of the mountain upon which the city is situated were overwhelming after the constant orange-brown of Tuscan brick.


We walked to find our hotel, and when we thought we were close, we paused to take out our map. We determined that we had walked a little too far, so we turn around and literally one door away we ran into it.

“Hey Erin, is that our hotel?”

“Hey Sarah, is that the Pantheon?”

We spent the rest of the afternoon trying to look at the first few spots on the walking tour suggested by a brochure we picked up in our hotel. The streets are dark and grimy and a little confusing. But it was still really neat to walk through and find the crowded shopping areas, look at the antique stores and the random cactus stands.


Saturday morning we woke up to a stunning clear sky, a fresh breeze, and we headed back to the water to check out the famous Aquarium. It only took us an hour to figure out how to buy a ticket and go inside, but we got some good pictures on the pier in the meantime.


After the aquarium, we took an open-air bus

tour of the city, where although we didn’t see a whole lot more of the city than we had seen before, we learned a little history behind the buildings and frescoes.


From the tour, we decided to head up and inland to walk around the castles nestled on the mountain ridge. We took a cable car up, and walked along the road. It was perfect to just walk through the trees, enjoy the fresh air, and get a little exercise, even if the fortresses were closed due to their age and dangerous crumbliness. On our way, we stopped by this incredible cathedral.


Apparently they had run out of scenes to paint.


The view from the top was incredible. It was a strange sensation to look at this city I had been researching online, looking at through maps and GoogleEarth, planning our routes to and from the train stations, to historical sites and restaurants, this city that I had looked up while sitting in my room at UVa thinking to myself, “What if I could go here? What if? What if I could just casually spend a weekend in Genoa?” and now to see it, exactly as I had seen it in maps, from a birds-eye view, this ancient port city spread out

before me, backlit by a yellow sunset.


Sunday morning we checked out of our hotel, got breakfast, and went to the Van Gogh and Gauguin exhibit at a nearby museum. The Gauguin painting being featured had last been out of the Boston Modern Art Museum forty years ago. And now we were seeing it in Genova? And furthermore, the Van Gogh pieces I had learned about in elementary school or for Odyssey of the Mind, or during ENGL 3830 (you know what I’m talking about, fellow UVa English majors) were right in front of me.


There were also pieces by Church, Rothko, Wyeth, Diebenkorn, Turner, and others.

I only wish I knew more about art history.


This weekend, ten of us from the program headed to Bologna for Friday night and Saturday. We headed to Florence first, some of us for a field trip, and others of us just because. Eric and I explored the city a little bit, he dragged me away from the river where I was enjoying my nostalgic longing for rowing as I watched a double dock and head out onto the water, we looked through the Uffizi and saw Botticelli’s Venus

up close and personally, then headed to the market.

I bought a bag! Woo!


When we got to Bologna, lacking a map of any kind or any useful knowledge of the city, asked around until we made it to our hotel. It took five friendly locals and about twenty minutes too long, but we did it. After our long day of walking with our heavy backpacks, plopping down onto our beds felt more than nice.

Dinner with the group was at an Osteria half a block down the street, and the food was delicious. So was falling asleep nice and early, despite missing out on the university nightlife of the city.

Saturday found us walking around the city, looking at more old things, including an archeological museum, an art museum, and many old buildings. It was during the archeological exhibit featuring pots on pots on pots that I realized the unfortunate side effect of seeing too many of a cool thing: you grow numb to the history behind it, and all you can think is, “Okay, great. Another old pot with some stuff painted on it. Anyone want to get a gelato?”

Okay, it didn’t get quite that boring. But I do think I would have gotten more out of it if I knew more about ancient Etruscan history, or perhaps what the archeologists thought the pots told us about the society in which they were used, or even the method used to paint the pots. Maybe pots back in the day were their form of facebook, and they’d paint their own faces on them, their own families and the events in their lives, their likes and interests, their relationship status, or if they had an eligible daughter to marry off or something, then sold them to get their message out. Instead of posting a new photo album or blog post, they’d whip out a new pot.

Anyways. We headed to a public park and got lunch, then lounged on the grass, kicked off our shoes, and passed a soccer ball around for an hour or so before heading back to Siena. The weather was just balmy. Not to be confused with steamy.



Erin Friedlander, Student Correspondent Spring 2012

lunedì 5 marzo 2012

A Peek Into an Italian Family

One of my favorite aspects of my time in Siena so far has been my homestay family. Being in a homestay was extremely important in my decision process for study abroad, and one of the main reasons I chose CET was because they offer a homestay option. I couldn’t be more happy with my choice – I live with a wonderful woman named Stella, who cooks amazing Italian food for my roommate, Rachel, and me every night, shares different aspects of Italian culture with us, and helps us tremendously in our Italian.

However, the best part of the homestay, in my opinion, is the chance to see an Italian family up close and personal. Stella technically lives alone, but her son, Francesco, lives in the apartment upstairs with his girlfriend, Natascia, and their son, Cosimo, and Natascia’s daughter Marta, so they are in Stella’s apartment every couple of days. Moreover, Stella’s ex-husband, Lino, often comes over for dinner, and there are about 5 other various people that come over fairly frequently. This means that people are constantly in and out of the apartment, which I love.

I see Cosimo, Stella’s 18-month-old grandson, almost every day, as Stella is very kind to Francesco and Natascia, and watches Cosimo in the afternoons most days of the week. He’s a bounding, bubbly little ball of energy, shouting, “CHICHA!” (his collective name for Rachel and me) as soon as he arrives at the apartment, and he is possibly the cutest child in existence.

But besides my daily interactions with the family, I’ve gotten to experience a real deal Italian birthday party, since Lino’s 60th birthday was a couple of weeks ago, and Stella took me along to the big party the family had for him. I was more than a little intimidated to meet about 20 non-English-speaking Italians, since I can speak Italian about as well as a toddler, but the overall experience at the party completely made up for any language awkwardness. Do you know the stereotype about Italian families being huge and noisy and fun? It turns out that that stereotype is pretty accurate – this party was big and noisy and lots and lots of fun, with more food than I could eat. Even though most of the family couldn’t speak English, they got a kick out of coming up to me and telling me any English they happened to know, whether that was, “coffee!” or, “thank you!” or, my favorite, “Yesterday all my troubles seemed so far away.”

I think it is so wonderful that I have the privilege of glimpsing into the intricacies of Italian family life, whether that involves watching Stella pretty much feed the entire planet, or playing with an adorable toddler every day, or going to family events. This family has welcomed me (literally) with open arms, and I’m having a blast.


Faith Bradham, Student Correspondent Spring 2012

lunedì 6 febbraio 2012

Locked and Confused

Yesterday, we learned about opening things.

Sarah, my roommate and I began our day with showers in our 3×3 foot shower box (that has surprisingly strong water pressure! Yay!), tea, espresso, and Italian breakfast cookies. We walked out of our apartment about two blocks down the main shopping street to il Piazza del Campo, the main square in Siena, to begin our orientation. As a group of 13, we followed our Resident Director Christina around Siena to all the different important places in the city. After this tour, we were set loose for a few hours. Eric, another UVa student, Sarah and I chose to wander.

Our first stop was back at our apartment to pick up some scarves to increase both our warmth and Italian-ness. We struggled to open the front door to the apartment. Little did we know how this small obstacle would foreshadow the events that followed..

We walked around, finding various beautiful views, and feeling mildly self-conscious of how American we seemed. However, we couldn’t help but exclaim in excited English when we discovered these views.

Naturally, we got lost immediately afterwards.

Don’t worry, Dad. We figured it out. Plus, Siena is tiny, has signs everywhere for Piazza del Campo (from which I know my way at least home and to school by now) and furthermore, it has a violent crime rate of virtually zero.

We made it to Eric’s homestay house, and got to look around inside a real, beautiful Italian home. We found the Italian version of Risk the board game (“Risiko”) and only then were we entirely satisfied. Then we were set to leave and continue our explorations.

However. Um. Well…we were locked inside. We could not figure out how to open the strange Italian door. There were two knobs. Both gold, the same size and shape, one over the other. No door handle, no directions. The bottom knob twisted, but only to add four more deadbolts to the one already barring our exit. The top knob did not twist, pull out, pull down, push in, or move at all, as far as we could figure out. We all tried. Eric was calling his homestay mom to ask her how to open the door from the inside, trying to figure out how to ask her in Italian, all of us desperate for our escape, when finally Sarah tried pulling the knob to the side. VICTORY! It opened! One strange, strange Italian door figured out. Four months more of them to go.

That afternoon, we took a tour of the Selva Contrada (neighborhood) and its museum commemorating all of the Palios it has won, as well as its Contrada church. Afterwards, the thirteen of us returned to the CET school for some more orientating lectures.






When Sarah and I returned home, we were hankering for uno spuntino (a snack) so w
e heated some water for tea, and pulled out some biscotti to munch on. But try as we might, we could NOT for the lives of us undo the metal clip that was holding the bag closed. We tried prying it and squeezing it and bending it and pulling it, but in the end we had to ask Lorenza for help.

Do you see the opening in the bag? Yeah. We, the brilliant university students we are, did not observe the gaping hole in the side of the bag. We blame it on the cultural differences.

Last night we went out to dinner with the entire CET program, Italian roommates, Resident Director Christina and Director Emiliana included. Italian dinners, at least when you go out to eat them, don’t typically begin until around 8pm. Ours began at 7:30pm. Gianluigi, the biggest character of all the Italian roommates, and our liaison into Italian nightlife (“I’m not an alcoholic; I just drink alcohol all the time.”), when he heard the time of dinner, said, “What? That’s lunchtime.”

After dinner, a group of us went to a bar on the main square called Fonte Gaia, we all got drinks and sat around talking. Andrea, the other guy Italian roommate, had a friend, Mattia hang out with us. Mattia is leaving on Sunday for Sweden as a part of the Erasmus program.

Cultural side note: You don’t tip in Italy. Everything, tax, and tip, is included. Also, people don’t go to bars until midnight or later. Furthermore, people don’t binge drink. You drink enough to loosen up, but not to get drunk.

Back to bars. Gianluigi, Andrea, and Mattia brought Sarah, Ari, Ashton and I out with them to various bars. We spoke a pretty even mixture of Italian and English, and I was pleased that Gianluigi felt comfortable enough to tease me and tell my friends to hate me and exclude me, etc, since he’d only do that if he thought I was comfortable enough to handle it. He proceeded to lump Sarah and I together, and make fun of us both.

Gianluigi, Andrea and Mattia were fascinated by Ashton’s naturally Euro-hipster aura. At one point, he was teaching Andrea’s friends Roberta, Roberta and Laura how to do ‘the sprinkler’ and ‘the shopping cart’ and how to jump around instead of real dancing, and Gianluigi goes, “He’s a genius with women. He’s my favorite. I don’t know how he does it.”

We made it back home around 2:30am, happy, sleepy, and significantly better at Italian language and culture.

Erin Friedlander
Student Corresponent, Siena Spring 2012

venerdì 3 febbraio 2012

A Snow Day, Siena Style

Yesterday morning, my roommate Rachel and I woke up to find ourselves transported into a wonderful world of magic, where happiness reigned supreme and life was always wonderful… in other words, the snow that had been falling steadily for the entire afternoon of the previous day had apparently kept on falling throughout the night, covering the ground in about six inches of snow. Like any good college students, the first thing we did after ooh-ing and aah-ing over the pretty snow was check our email to see if class was cancelled.

Nothing. Eternal sadness. However, my phone soon rang and I picked up to hear the dulcet tones of Christina, our Resident Director, telling me that the buses weren’t working and class was cancelled. Glory hallelujah – snow day in Siena! Rachel and I ran to tell Stella, our host mother, that we didn’t have class, and we promptly bundled up to go play in the Piazza del Campo.

We found the Campo turned into a winter wonderland: since we were there so early in the day, the snow was largely untouched and perfect. Rachel and I marveled at the beauty for a few minutes, but our inner children soon took over and we made a snowman, and, after our friend Evan joined us, snow angels and even a snow fort!

As we returned home, wet, cold, and tired, with enormously fat snowflakes still drifting from the sky, I reflected on the fact that I was in Tuscany during a rare snowstorm. How much more magical can life get? I can still hardly wrap my head around the fact that I currently live in Italy, and the snowstorm made my life here seem that much more like a fairytale.

P.S. Italian snow is prettier than American snow!


Faith Bradham

Student Correspondent

Siena, Spring 2012